03

Sep

Surf #2 Print

On Thursday morning my group, 2B, went surfing for the second time. I was hoping that the water wouldn’t be too cold because I knew that I would enjoy myself more if I wasn’t freezing.  Fortunately we had beautiful weather and I barely felt the temperature of the water at all through my wetsuit.

The surf instructors, Mel and Pete showed us all how to get ready for a wave by paddling with our arms. Mel took me aside and got me to lie down on my board then told me to paddle over to some kids several metres away, paddle around them and paddle back to him. The next time I tried to catch a wave it really helped – I caught it and was even able to stand up for a few seconds. Standing up for the first time was a really strange feeling – like nothing else – it’s as if time stands still. I thought I would fall off straight away and when I didn’t I was very surprised. We went back onto the beach for morning tea – choc-coconut cake, YUM! Then it was back in the water. This time I caught a wave and stood up for about 6-8 seconds. I was surprised with all the time that I found while I was surfing to turn around, bend my knees, stand closer to the middle and spread my weight evenly. I stood up on one more wave before it was time to go. I was surprised how quickly the morning went. Surfing is awesome fun! I can’t wait to go again!